以色列第一本猪肉食谱
以色列人艾利.兰多医生写了一本以猪肉为原料的食谱。在这个明文禁止吃猪肉的国家，该书被正统派犹太人看作是对犹太传统的挑衅，但却受到许多世俗年轻犹太人的青睐。Dr. Eli Landau, an Israeli, wrote a pork cookbook that includes his recipe for bacon frittata.
图为以色列人艾利.兰多医生，他写了一本以猪肉为原料的食谱，其中有培根菜陷蛋饼的做法。
作者：杰弗瑞.尤思科
发表于2010年9月28号
ANY author has to deal with bad reviews, but how about the wrath of God? 每位作家都要应付恶意的评论，那么上帝如何处理对他的不敬呢？
Dr. Eli Landau has written “The White Book,” touted as the first Israeli pork cookbook. 艾利.兰多医生写了一本书名为“白书”，被奉为以色列第一本猪肉食谱。
With 80 mainly Mediterranean recipes and Eastern European dishes, “The White Book” tries to reveal the secrets of the pig for cooks who have never prepared it nor perhaps even tasted it. 书中介绍了80种主要的地中海菜肴和东欧食谱，“白书”试图向那些从来没有烹饪过或品尝过猪肉的厨师们揭开猪肉神秘的面纱。
Since the mid-1950s, Israel has had laws restricting the sale of pork and banning its farm production in deference to biblical proscriptions. But because of legal loopholes, it was possible to raise pigs for science or in areas considered Christian. Pork buyers included secular Jews, Christian Arabs and more recently, immigrant workers and the hundreds of thousands of immigrants from the former Soviet Union who don’t keep kosher. 自从上个世纪中叶，以色列就颁布了严格的律法限制猪肉出售并禁止违反圣经的猪肉生产。但由于法律的漏洞，有可能以科研的名义养猪或在基督徒聚居地出售猪肉。购买猪肉的有世俗犹太人、阿拉伯裔基督徒、近来越来越多的新移民工人和成百上千从前苏联移民来的不遵守犹太律法的犹太人。
Now it is up to individual municipalities to determine whether pork can be sold in each neighborhood and whether shops will incur fines for selling it, much as they would for staying open on the Sabbath. Many Jews who ignore other kosher rules will not eat pork for cultural and historical reasons. Observant Muslims also abstain from it. 目前，能否在某条街上出售猪肉以及卖猪肉的商家是否被罚款，如同店铺是否可以在安息日营业，都是由各地市政府决定的。很多犹太人并不遵守圣经教条，但他们会因为文化和历史原因不吃猪肉。虔诚的穆斯林也抵制吃猪肉。
Even more than other nonkosher foods, pork is seen by many Israelis as an affront to Jewish nationalism. Pork sellers routinely face protesters, and in recent years, arsonists have attacked shops in cities like Netanya and Safed, where Orthodox Jews live near secular immigrant communities. 比起其他圣经上禁止的食物，猪肉更容易被很多以色列人看作是对其民族主义的侮辱。猪肉店通常要面对抗议者的挑衅，尤其是最近几年，纵火犯常常攻击像内坦亚和萨法德这种城市的猪肉店，这些地区正统犹太人居住地靠近世俗移民社区。
Dr. Landau, a 61-year-old retired cardiologist and food writer from Tel Aviv, likes pork and thinks there are many Israelis who shy from it not so much because it’s taboo, but because they don’t know how to prepare it. 现年61岁的兰多医生是一名退休心脏病专家和美食作家，住在特拉维夫，喜欢吃猪肉，他认为很多以色列人羞于吃猪肉的原因不仅仅是宗教禁忌，而是他们不知道如何烹饪。
“People are reluctant to cook pork at home,” said Dr. Landau, who is not an observant Jew. “I want to make it easier for chefs and personal cooks to bring it home and to the menus. If that happens, I’ll be more than happy.” “人们不愿意在家里烹饪猪肉，”作为不奉行犹太教义的犹太人，兰多医生称，“我希望厨师和在家做饭的人更容易把猪肉摆上桌或写进菜单里。如果真是那样的话，我就太高兴了。”
Rabbi Shimon Felix, an Orthodox rabbi and religious educator in Jerusalem, said he thought Dr. Landau’s intent was “let’s stick it to the religious tradition.” 住在耶路撒冷的正统派拉比兼宗教教师西门.费里斯表示，他认为兰多医生的意图是“让人们更遵守宗教传统。”
“There’s something childish to being so naughty,” the rabbi said. “It’s more mature and adult to look at this as an ancient tradition.” “对此事大惊小怪未免有点孩子气，”这位拉比说，“将它看作古老的传统才是成熟的做法。”
The book, which Dr. Landau self-published in January, has not caused much of a stir so far. 到目前为止，这本兰多医生一月份自行出版的书还没有宣起太大的波澜。
Dr. Landau said that ultra-Orthodox Jews, who would be most likely to protest, haven’t heard of it because they don’t watch cable news or read the mainstream press. 兰多医生说，最可能抵制这本书的极端正统派犹太人还没有听说过这本书，因为他们不上网看新闻也不看主流报刊。
Oh, it’s not that they’re unaware of it, Rabbi Felix said, it’s that they just don’t care. 但拉比费里斯反对说，不是因为他们没有得知这本书，而是他们根本不关心。
“It’s perceived as being from Tel Aviv,” he said of the secular city, “and what goes on in Tel Aviv, nobody cares.” “这本书被认为只在特拉维夫出版，”他指的是世俗犹太人城市，“至于特拉维夫发生了什么事，没人在乎。”
Rabbi Yuval Cherlow, the head of the Orthodox Hesder Yeshiva in Petach Tikva, said, “I’m very disappointed by this book.” He added, “I’m very sorry and it hurts me.” But fighting pork consumption is not at the top of his list of priorities for “improving Jewish identity in our society,” Rabbi Cherlow said. 住在佩塔提科瓦的正统派犹太领袖尤瓦.切洛拉比说：“我对这本书非常失望。”他补充道，“我感到很遗憾很痛心，”但是反对吃猪肉并不是他为“增进以色列社会犹太认同感”优先要做的事。
Asked on his Web site what Orthodox Jews should do in reaction to the book, Rabbi Cherlow answered “nothing,” explaining, “by advertising it, you are helping it.” 当被网友问到正统派犹太人应该对该书作何反应时，切洛拉比回答说“什么也不做”，他解释道“宣传它就是帮助它。”
According to the book’s distributor, Keter Books, 2,000 copies were printed and 1,100 to 1,200 have been sold. Ami Ashkenazi, the company’s marketing and sales manager, said a best-selling cookbook in Israel sells about 6,000 copies, but for such a niche topic, 2,000 to 3,000 copies sold would be considered a success. 据该书发行人科特称，该书共印刷了2000本，其中1100至1200本已售出。出版社市场部和销售负责人艾米.阿什肯纳兹说，以色列最畅销的菜谱最多卖出过6000本，但是对于这样隐讳的题材，2000到3000本就可以算很成功了。
Pork is a sensitive subject, said Daniel Rogov, the food and wine critic for the newspaper Haaretz. 国土报评论员丹尼尔.罗格说，猪肉是个敏感话题。
“In Haaretz, we’re allowed to write about it, give recipes for it,” he said, “but I will say this much, when you do, you get dozens of e-mails to the editor, accusing the writer of the recipe of all sorts of treason and damning him to eternal flames of hell.” “在国土报，写关于猪肉的文章和食谱是允许的”，他说，“但我要说的是，如果你这么做，你得给编辑写一大堆邮件来批评指责菜谱的作者，诅咒他下地狱。”
In Israel’s leading daily, Yediot Aharonot, the food writer Guy Rubanenko said Dr. Landau’s work could be seen as much as a provocation as a cookbook. 以色列主流日报Yediot Aharonot的美食作家居伊.卢巴嫩克指出，兰多医生的食谱可以看作是一种挑衅。
Mr. Rogov disagrees. “I do not think the book was written at all as a provocation,” he said. “It was written with the love and care he feels for the dishes.” 洛格先生不同意这种说法，"我认为这本书根本不能算作挑衅，"他说，“因为书里充满对美食的热爱和关怀。”
As a child, Dr. Landau said, he developed a taste for pork when his family was given some by a kosher butcher. 兰多医生说，他小时候一位犹太屠夫送给他们一些猪肉，从那时起他就爱上了猪肉。
Dr. Landau said that his mother had cared for the butcher when he was a boy in the Lodz ghetto in Poland during World War II. She ate no pork, but she got sausages on the black market to keep him alive. Years later, when the butcher grew up and his benefactor had a boy of her own, he sent her family sausages to remember her kindness. 兰多医生说，二战时期在波兰的罗兹犹太人区，母亲曾经照顾过那个屠夫（当时他还是个小孩）。她不吃猪肉，但会在黑市上买些香肠回来养活他。很多年以后，这个屠夫长大成人，他的恩人也有了自己的儿子，他便送了一些香肠给她的家人来纪念她的恩惠。
Dr. Landau loved eating that sausage as a child, but he couldn’t find pork in Israeli restaurants as a teenager. Then a grill man told him the secret: order “the white steak,” a common euphemism for pork in Israel, and one of the inspirations for the name of the book. 兰多医生从小就喜欢吃香肠，但十几岁时在以色列的餐馆根本找不到猪肉。后来做烧烤的告诉他这个秘密：点“白色牛排”（猪肉在以色列的委婉说法），书名也源自这个启发。
Dr. Landau, a food columnist for Haaretz and the author of three cookbooks with Mediterranean recipes, found the pork of his dreams in Italy, where he studied medicine near Parma and tasted his first real prosciutto. 作为国土报的美食专栏作家和三本地中海菜谱的作者，兰多医生在意大利学医的时候找到了他梦寐以求的猪肉，并头一回品尝了真正的猪肉菜陷蛋饼。
“Pork meat is to a cook like canvas to a painter,” Dr. Landau said. “You can draw on it your own tastes and the meat will accept, unlike lamb or even beef.” “猪肉对于厨师就像画布对于画家一样重要，”兰多医生说，“你可以按照自己的口味烹饪，猪肉都能吸收，而不像羊肉或牛肉。”
In one of his favorite recipes, for spaghetti with pork loin sauce, “the loin of pork is cooked together with tomatoes — my interpretation to an Italian dish. There’s a chunk of meat with the bone and it’s cooked for a long time, until the meat falls off the bone.” 他最喜爱的菜肴之一是猪腰肉酱意大利面，“猪腰肉和土豆炖在一起，这是我对意大利菜的理解。大块的肉连着骨，要炖很长时间，直到肉从骨头上剥离下来。”
Dr. Landau also touts his Viennese-style pork neck schnitzel cut very thick. “What people have in mind is chicken schnitzel,” he said, with a hint of disparagement, about most Israelis. “But they don’t really know schnitzel made of pork, especially this size and thickness, which keeps the juiciness.” 兰多医生也兜售他的维也纳风味的厚猪颈肉片。“人们脑中想到的是鸡肉片，”他说，带着对大多数以色列人的调侃，“但他们不了解猪肉做成的肉片，尤其是带着汁的肉片的大小和厚度。”
Yuval Ben-Ami, an author and former online food critic for Haaretz, said the recipes in the book were contemporary. “It can compete with pork cookbooks or pork recipes from countries that are not pork-deprived,” he said. 国土报前网上美食评论家尤瓦.本-艾米称这本书里的菜肴正当时，“它可以与吃猪肉国家的猪肉食谱相媲美。”他说。
At Yoezer, a high-end restaurant in Jaffa, the chef Itzik Cohen has held dinners for as many as 90 customers exclusively with the book’s pork recipes. 贾法一家高级餐厅里，厨师伊茨科.科恩为多达90位顾客做晚餐，参照的猪肉食谱全是这本书上的。
Dishes included frittata with bacon, prosciutto and zucchini; cabbage filled with pork and polenta; pork scaloppine with risotto; pork-cheek soup with hummus; spaghetti carbonara; pork ribs marinated in yogurt; and pork meatballs with fennel seeds. 菜式包括培根菜陷蛋饼，南瓜火腿；白菜猪肉卷和玉米粥；猪肉片烩饭；鹰嘴豆泥猪肉汤；干酪沙司烤意大利面；酸奶腌猪排骨；还有茴香猪肉丸。
“They were good evenings,” said Mr. Cohen, who has since incorporated three of the dishes into his everyday menu. “Everyone was enjoying the food. It all came out beautiful.” “每个晚上都很美好，”科恩先生说，自从他将书中的三种食谱加进日常菜单中，“每个人都很喜欢这些菜。真是好极了。”
Meir Adoni, the chef of Catit Restaurant in Tel Aviv, enjoys pork but won’t cook it, in consideration of his conservative parents. Younger chefs are less likely to be so deferential. 特拉维夫Catit餐厅的厨师梅尔.安东尼喜欢吃猪肉，但由于他父母是保守的犹太人，他不会自己做猪肉。年轻一点的厨师就不会这么守规矩。
“The younger generation keeps less and less of the rules,” Mr. Adoni said. “年轻一代越来越不遵守律法，”安东尼说。
Dr. Landau said he hopes his book will resonate with young people who have become less observant Jews, and with his peers who have embraced an internationalist perspective. 兰多医生希望自己的书能得到日渐偏离正统教义的年轻犹太人和像他一样拥有国际视野的同伴的青睐。
“It was not possible 20 years ago,” Dr. Landau said. “In 20 or 30 years, it will be a natural thing. I don’t think I will be around to see it.” “这在20年前是不可能的，”兰多医生说，“20到30年后，将会是理所当然的事。我想我不会错过的。”
猪到底得罪了谁，招谁惹谁了，成了一帮傻鸟世界观的金标准了。 我在薛涌的书上看到07年美国就流行“犹太佛教徒”，以色列也有佛教中心，受到右翼犹太人的指责和攻击。 我那篇文章不合适的话，可以批评嘛，为什么要禁止我发言呢？我也是虔诚的佛弟子嘛
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